A boat ride around the Ganges in Varanasi

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Varanasi is the epitome of India many people think of before they touch the soil: it is dirty, crowded, loud, noisy and crazy.  When I arrived from an overnight train from Khajuraho, the tuktuk drivers proceeded to harass my friends and I; when we finally got a good deal on a pair of tuktuks (it took a lot of haggling), we passed through narrow streets littered with trash, which was also where skinny cows seemed to loiter around.

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